Destination: Pos Keding

This time, Pos Keding. We camp a bit further from our usual campsite.

4x4 Driving Experience to Pos Tibang

Once again on January 17th, 2009, as usual, Izani and Jom Main Lumpur group from Tanjung Malim had a chance to drive our 4x4 to Pos Tibang. This time four vehicle manage to go, Korando, Land Rover 109, BJ40 and Lada Niva.





Pos Tibang is an Orang Asli Settlement, almost 1000ft above sea level. About 200 of Semai Orang Asli settled there since World War II. Pos Tibang was headed by Tok Batin Charlie.



About 2km from the settlement, we found a campsite near to the waterfall.

Research on Orang Asli

Pictures of field trip to study on orang asli in Taman Negara.

Teratak aka Ulu Bernam

Pictures from my last outing to Ulu Bernam.

Korando in Taman Negara

A convoy of three 4x4 depart Kuala Tahan around 9pm on a journey to Kg. Pagi, Taman Negara. We arrived at this bridge (N04 25.448' E102 27.757') around 12 midnight. Due to poor condition of the bridge, we decide to camp and stay overnight. In the morning, we rebuild by adding another log to make it wider for the Korando's oversized tyres. We manage to pass thru at around 10am and arrived Kg. Pagi half an hour later.

4WD, AWD and 4x4, Full Time or Part Time?

OK guys, what is the difference between 4WD, AWD and 4x4? Why is it has full time and part time 4WD? Which one is better? First, word of caution; manufacturers tend to obscure the true nature of their 4WD/AWD systems behind fantasy names like "Active 4WD", "Quadra-Drive", etc. - others might call their automatic AWD "Real Time 4WD".

There are so many different 4WD systems on the market now that it is important to be precise and specific. It is important to call AWD when it is AWD and full time 4WD when it is full time 4WD. Just to say 4x4 is not sufficient any longer.

Part time 4WD is a system that can only be used part of the time in four wheel drive (Harald Pietschmann, 1997). This 4WD system was created to provide a vehicle with more traction to either carry higher loads and/or to travel in adverse terrain conditions. It can only be used for adverse terrain conditions - not for dry pavement. Typical lever settings are 2WD, 4WD Hi, 4WD Lo.

Image shows link in transfer case open. Car is in 2WD.


Very good off-road. Most competent when combined with axle differential locks.
• 2WD setting must be used on dry pavement.
• If 4WD is selected, all 4 wheels are permanently powered.
Prominent examples: 1942 Willys, Jeep Wrangler.

Link is now closed. Both drive shafts are linked solidly. Car is in 4WD.


1 = engine
2 = transfer case
3 = rear drive shaft
4 = front drive shaft
5 = front differential
6 = rear differential
7 = rear axle
8 = front axle.



Full time 4WD - also called permanent 4WD, can be used full time on all surfaces including pavement. Full time 4WD was created to provide a vehicle with more traction and to make 4WD more useful for everyday life. The additional feature of a differential incorporated into the transfer case makes it possible to use 4WD all the time. 2WD is no longer available. Can still be a strong workhorse. Some rough terrain competence is retained - the priority is added stability as a safety gain for everyday driving.

Full time 4WD layout.



A = center differential
B = front axle differential
C = rear axle differential






Typical lever or switch settings are 4WD Hi, 4WD Lo. Very good off-road when center diff is lockable. Even better when combined with axle differential locks.
• All 4 wheels are permanently powered.
Prominent examples: pre 2006 Mercedes M-Class, Mercedes G500, LandRover, RangeRover, Toyota Prado.

Tips On Mud Driving

Words and Photograph by Pat Callinan

So, the track you are driving is starting to get a little slippery and muddy. What do you do? First, drop your tyre pressures. This increases the amount of tread in contact with mudder earth (okay, bad joke). Dumping the tyre pressure to about 16psi (or a little higher if you have a big load on-board) increases the tread pattern length. Sure, your sidewalls will bag out a little but that is not why we do it. It’s all about spreading the load and increasing the amount of tread on the ground.

Secondly, lock your 4WD into low-range and activate your centre diff-lock (if you have one). Some will argue high-range, but I’m a fan of low. It provides more torque to the driving wheels, more quickly. Why do we want power? Because the key to many sloppy, muddy tracks is momentum. Tyre treads are quickly blocked up with mud, and the best thing you have going for you is the momentum to roll those tyres over the slop, rather than dig holes through it. Therein lies the key to any successful mud driving. Good throttle control is where it’s at. Too much gas and you will dig holes, too little and your tyres will cake up with goo, grinding you to a halt.

The right tyres will make you look like a much better driver than your ill-equipped mates. Highway tyres (H/Ts) block-up much too easily. They are designed to be quiet and handle well on-road, hence their closed tread. All-Terrain tyres are better, with a more open tread, but they are still not fantastic in mud.

Muddies, or mud-terrain tyres, are what you want. They are bloody noisy on-road, but those open, blocky treads will drag you to the top of Mud Bog Mountain after the others have failed. It is all in the self-cleaning abilities. As the tyre tread gets filled with filth, that mud is quickly ejected, leaving clean tread to clamber up the track. Muddies are not a cure-all, but they’re the next best thing.

Of course, there is another step above a mud-terrain tyre and that is the wonderful world of hardcore tyres. When you hear of brands like Bogger, Claw and Centipede, it’s not hard to understand why. If these tyres were part of your family, they would be the feral ones living in the hills that no one wants to talk about.


Their road manners are worse than mud-terrain tyres but show them a bog hole and they’ll chew it up and spit it out. The best tyre in the mud that I have driven on is the Bogger, closely followed by the more sensible, and on-road friendly, Simex Centipede. Yet, even the world’s most aggressive tyres do not work well if all four wheels aren’t spinning.

Differentials are designed to allow one wheel to spin faster than the other, to let your 4WD turn corners and around bends. If a 4WD’s differentials were permanently locked-in, they would be over-shooting turns all over the place. However when off-road, that differential action causes the wheel with the least resistance to spin. In mud, that can send all of the torque to the wheel that is spinning hopelessly in the slop. Many modern vehicles feature traction-control that senses which of the wheels are slipping off-road and brakes those wheels. Thereby sending drive to the wheels that still have grip.

The first few incarnations of traction-control in the late nineties are rated awful in my books, as the traction-control response was seriously delayed. By the time the computer had worked out you had lost traction, you were well on your way to bogdom. Worse still, the computer would then brake the spinning wheels, sapping much needed momentum from your rig. The result? One stuck truck.

During road tests, we found that hitting the accelerator at full throttle would only just get you through a section where a traditionally diff-locked vehicle would simply walk through. Why? Because you had to take into account the artificial braking of the wheels through the traction-control system. But (and it’s a big hairy but) it seems manufacturers have finally nutted it out.

Traction-control systems, like that found on modern day 4WD, have come of age and improved dramatically in recent times. They are now far quicker to activate, and many have various modes (mud, snow, rocks, sand etc) to account for the different track surfaces you will encounter. In fact, modern traction-control systems can take you a long way past where your talent has run out.

Personally, I’m still a big fan of the simple old cross-axle differential lock, like the TJM Pro-Locker, the Maxi-Drive and the ARB Air-Locker. When it gets tough you turn them on and you know they’re on. You can use your eyes and experience to anticipate potential loss of traction on the track ahead, and then engage the lockers where needed. The downside is that they cost roughly $2000 per diff. This does include a compressor though, which can be used to air-up again at the end of the day.

There are cheaper alternatives such as the Detroit Locker, Lock-Rite and the 4WD Systems Lokka, and these cost less than $1000 each. These are automatic lockers and they lock the diff when the speed between the wheels is similar. They can make some noise when they engage and disengage, and are better suited to long wheelbase fourbies. Personally, I prefer them on the rear axle only, as they can engage and make steering heavy if installed on the front.

Of course, most mid to large sized 4WDs feature limited-slip rear differentials as standard. They work okay when the vehicle is new but they quickly deteriorate with age and become ineffective. However, an expert can tweak the diffs, which is a relatively inexpensive way of getting good traction. Go easy here though, or you may compromise on-road handling characteristics.

Enough about traction, what is the quickest way to get out of a bog? Before trying anything, have a good look around your tyres and your underbody. If it is just a traction issue, a gentle tug from a snatch strap should see you free. If you can’t see daylight under your fourby, then you could be in trouble. Have a poke around with a long-handled shovel and clear mud from around the tyres and diffs. Again, give the vehicle a gentle tug with a snatch strap or a winch, and try to set it free.

The operative word here is ‘gentle’. If your fourby is well and truly stuck, then it can turn into a dirty big suction cup on mud. Flat surfaces like fuel tanks can suck themselves into the mud, and turn a two-tonne fourby into a six-tonne load. Most straps, shackles and winches simply aren’t rated for that kind of force. In this scenario, you have to break the suction before attempting to drive out or be recovered. You can do this by using an air-bag jack, or a hi-lift jack. This lifts the vehicle, breaking the suction, and allows you to pack rocks or dry material under the tyres, giving you enough clearance and traction to drive out.

If you are using an exhaust-powered airbag jack, try to clear away any sharp debris like sticks from the area that you are placing the airbag. These babies have a tendency to puncture easily. If you are using a hi-lift jack, be sure to use a decent jacking plate, and be careful, as hi-lift jacks are unstable at the best of times. Ensure you pick a good strong jacking point on your vehicle.

Newcomers to the mud-driving game are often tempted to drive off the track, or to the side. It often looks drier, higher and safer but do not be fooled. Once you’re out of the wheel tracks and ruts, you are like a train off the tracks. Your fourby will want to slip and slide sideways where there may be trees. The ground off the main track is often a lot softer and even boggier, which is because the track base has not been compacted by a few thousand fourbies. Stick to the track and you will be better off.

Of course, if it is an emergency and you simply have to drive a difficult track, tyre chains can be a final option. Why only a final option? Because they’ll rip up a track real fast, which only leads to track closures, and no true 4WDer wants that.

Taken from 4WD Monthly, Australia